Fortunately, apples can last a long time when they are stored in a cool place.

I recommend using apples fairly soon after they have been picked for recipes where they won’t be cooked. This way they will be at their optimal crispness. When apples are stored for a long time, their peel will begin to toughen and the flesh will get softer. They are still perfect for baking though.

This year I lugged home a huge bag of Spigold apples. They are a cross between Northen Spy and Golden Delicious apples, and they have worked beautifully for apple desserts.

I made two different types of French apple tarts with my Spigolds. The first was an Apple Nougat Tart, where a sweet dough shell is filled with caramelized apples and topped with a sugared egg white and sliced almond mixture. The topping transforms in the oven to a slightly chewy crust that adds the perfect touch of sweetness and nuttiness to the apples. It’s truly delicious.

The second was a Baked Apple Tart using an almond frangipane filling. Pate a foncer dough, which is very crisp and buttery, is filled with the almond cream and then topped with fanned apple slices. As it bakes, the almond filling puffs up into the apples and whole thing is enticingly fragrant. Eating this tart reminds me of eating a luscious coffee cake.

Every year we pick apples we also make applesauce. My mom has a food mill that we use to run the cooked apple pieces through, then the applesauce is lightly sweetened with sugar and spiced with some fresh cinnamon.While we were engaging in this process I also made some caramel apples for my brother, who is a huge fan.

But now to the Apple Spice Cupcakes. The cupcakes are tender, slightly spicy, and the perfect compliment to the grated apple pieces that are dotted throughout. I made a salted caramel sauce which I used to flavor basic Italian buttercream and also drizzled over the finished cupcakes.

Happy Fall!

Apple Spice Cupcakes (The Pastry Queen Christmas by Rebecca Rather)

• 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
• 3 cups sugar
• 2 tablespoons light molasses
• 6 large eggs
• 3 cups cake flour
• 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
• 2 teaspoons ground allspice
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 cup sour cream
• 3 tart baking apples, peeled and shredded (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 tablespoons grated fresh ginger (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line muffin tins with paper liners.

Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula then beat in the molasses. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating between each addition.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, salt, and ground spices to blend.

Add the flour mixture and sour cream alternately to the batter, starting and ending with the flour mixture. After each addition, beat on low speed just to combine the ingredients. Stir in the shredded apples, vanilla, and ginger.

Spoon the batter 2/3 full into the muffin cups. Bake 20-25 minutes until the cupcakes spring back lightly when touched and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.

Salted Caramel Sauce (The Secrets of Baking by Sherry Yard)

• 1/4 cup water
• 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided
• 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
• 1/2 cup heavy cream, warmed to 100 degrees F
• 1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Combine the water, 1 cup sugar, and corn syrup in a medium saucepan over high heat, being careful not to get any of the mixture on the side of the pot.  Once the mixture boils, stop stirring from this point on. The caramel will be very bubbly and be careful, because it is very hot.

Meanwhile, heat a saucepan of water and place a whisk in it.

Insert a candy thermometer into the caramel pot. When the temperature reaches 300 degrees F, lower the heat to medium, which will slow the cooking. Continue to cook to 350 degrees F.

When the caramel reaches 350 degrees F, remove the pan from the heat. It should be golden brown. Let it rest for 1 minute, or until the bubbles have subsided. Add the warm cream to the caramel. It will bubble up vigorously so be careful.

Quickly whisk the creme fraiche, 1 tablespoon sugar, lemon juice, and salt into the caramel. Cool to room temperature and store in an airtight container for up to a month. When cold, it has the consistency of peanut butter.

Personally, I think this sauce tastes better if it has had a day to rest in the refrigerator.

Cake:

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 12 ounces premium-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
• 6 large eggs
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 2 tablespoons dark rum, such as Myer’s, or the liqueur of your choice, such as Kahlua or Grand Marnier (optional)

Milk Chocolate Mousse

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 10 ounces premium-quality milk chocolate
• 3 large eggs, separated
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream

Dark Chocolate Glaze

• 4 ounces premium-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
• 1/4 cup light corn syrup
• 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch cake pan with a parchment paper round and coat evenly with cooking spray. Melt the butter and chocolate in a metal bowl set over a medium saucepan with 2 inches of simmering water. Stir until smooth. Remove the bowl from over the saucepan. Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl. Whisk the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture until well combined. Stir in the vanilla and rum.

Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and place it in a larger roasting or baking pan. Fill the larger pan with enough hot water to come about 2/3 of the way up the sides of the cake pan. Bake for 35-40 minutes. The cake is done when it is firm to the touch. It will rise while baking and settle down to its original size when removed from the oven. Cool the cake completely in the pan on the rack.

To make the mousse: melt the butter and milk chocolate in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Set the chocolate mixture aside to cool. Using a mixer or whisk, beat the egg yolks and sugar until smooth. Stir in the vanilla. Combine the egg yolk mixture with the chocolate mixture. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites on high speed using a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until shiny, stiff peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, one-third at a time, using a large rubber spatula. Using a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip the cream on high speed just until soft peaks start to form. If you beat the cream more, the mousse will get lumpy. Gently fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture.

Spread the mousse over the cooled cake, filling the pan to the top. Wrap with plastic wrap or aluminum foil and freeze at least 6 hours and preferably overnight.

At this point the cake can be kept in the freezer for up to three weeks.

To make the glaze: Place the chocolate in a medium mixing bowl. Combine the corn syrup, cream, and vanilla in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Immediately pour the cream mixture over the chopped chocolate and whisk until smooth. Keep the glaze at room temperature to ensure that it will pour. If the glaze is too thick, add more cream.

To assemble the dessert, remove the cake from the freezer. Dip the bottom of the pan in hot water to loosen, then invert it onto a plate, so that the mousse is on top. Pour the glaze over the mousse, making sure it covers the sides. Let the glaze set at least 1 hour. Freeze until ready to serve. The dessert is best when removed from the freezer just a few minutes before cutting. If left at room temperature, it will begin to melt.

Yield 14 to 16 servings

Hunter Smith is an incredible chef and one of my very best friends. These days he is a personal chef, but we used to work together, and I was always in awe at his culinary artistry. I find him so inspiring.

For the special meal, Hunter and I created a custom menu that we prepared at my place. It was so fun to stay in, relax, hang with my parents, and eat far better than at any other restaurant in Vail. They loved sitting at the counter and watching us cook.

Photo (Below): Chef Hunter Smith’s Wagyu beef creation

Photo (Below): The happy diners

When I used to live back home, I would make a pistachio pastry that my parents adored. It consisted of rounds of dacquoise, a chewy nutty meringue, layered with luscious pistachio pastry cream. It was rich and light at the same time. Deliciousness!

Flipping through The Seven Sins of Chocolate, by Laurent Schott,  a gorgeous cookbook given to me by one of my former chefs and good friend (and also soon to be famous!), Rahm Fama, I came across a chocolate pistachio dessert that sparked my interest. I wanted to make a variation of it as a treat to my parents.

The mousse cakes consist of three layers: a chocolate-brownie, rich pistachio cream, and light chocolate mousse. Then the little cakes are doused in a shiny chocolate glaze. I plated them with a raspberry coulis and scooped a quenelle of pistachio ice cream on the side. I rarely eat dessert, because I taste bites of it all day, but this was one I nearly finished. It’s pretty good!

The other plus? It works at high-altitude. No adjustments necessary. Rather than make the single 6-inch cake, I used 3-inch cake ring molds to create four individual mousse cakes. It’s always fun to get your very own dessert.

Photo (below): Garnishing the Chocolate Pistachio Mousse Cakes with finely chopped pistachios.

Chocolate-Brownie Cake Layer

• 1 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Melt the chocolate and butter in a pan over low heat. Remove from heat, and whisk in the egg and sugars. Stir in the flour. Divide among 4 buttered 3-inch ring molds, or a buttered 6-inch cake pan with a removable bottom. Bake until the cake is almost set, slightly puffed, and just a small dark circle remains inthe center. Taking the cake out at this point ensures you have a fudgy, moist brownie layer. Slightly underbaked brownies are always superior in taste and texture.

Pistachio Cream

• 1 teaspoon powdered gelatin
• 1 tablespoon water
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup pistachio paste

Sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small bowl and let stand 5 minutes. Whisk the yolks and sugar in a bowl until the mixture is light yellow and slightly thickened. Bring the cream to a simmer in a saucepan and whisk into the yolk mixture. Return the mixture to the saucepan, and stir over low heat til it thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Whisk in the pistachio paste. Strain through a wire sieve into a clean bowl.

Chocolate Mousse

• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons water
• 3 large egg yolks
• 4 oz bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled to tepid
• 3/4 cup heavy cream

Bring the sugar and water to a full boil. Beating the yolks with an electric mixer, pour the hot syrup into the yolks, until the yolks have doubled in volume and are cool. Using clean beaters, whip the cream to soft peaks. Whisk one-third of the whipped cream into the tepid chocolate. Then, using a rubber spatula, fold in the yolk mixture, then the remaining cream.

Chocolate Icing

• 1 1/2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
• 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon water
• 1 cup sugar
• 3/4 cup good quality cocoa powder
• 3/4 cup heavy cream

Sprinkle the gelatin over 1 tablespoon of water in a small bowl, and let stand 5 minutes. Meanwhile, bring sugar, cocoa, heavy cream, and remaining 1/4 cup water to a boil in saucepan, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the soaked gelatin, making sure it is fully dissolved. Pour into a bowl and let stand until the icing is tepid, but still fluid. If it is too warm when you glaze, it will melt the mousse. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Raspberry Coulis

• 1 bag frozen raspberries
• Sugar and lemon juice to taste

In a blender, combine the raspberries with a little sugar and lemon juice. Puree, then taste to see if any additional sugar or lemon juice is needed to brighten or sweeten the flavor of the berries. Strain to remove the seeds.

Assembly:

• Once the cakes have cooled, leave them in the ring molds and top with the pistachio cream.
• Allow the pistachio cream to set slightly, either by refrigerating or freezing it.
• Cover to the top of the mold with the chocolate mousse. You will want to do this step shortly after you make the mousse so that it doesn’t set. Use a knife to smooth the top. You will have some extra mousse leftover.
• Freeze the cakes until the mousse is firm.
• Arrange the mousse cakes over a wire rack placed on top of a sheet pan. Ladle the tepid chocolate icing over each mousse cake, running an offset spatula across the tops once to smooth and evenly distribute the icing. Refrigerate or freeze the cakes to set the icing, then let them temper in the refrigerator before you eat them so that the components are not still frozen.
• Spoon the raspberry coulis across a plate. Top with an assembled mousse cake, and serve with pistachio ice cream, if desired.

Photo (below): Cooking a custom meal for my parents in the kitchen with chef Hunter Smith

For photos and comments check out the link above.

Meringue Mushrooms:

• 1 large egg white, room temperature
• Pinch of cream of tartar
• 1/4 cup sugar

Cake:

• 1/4 cup water
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/3 cup cocoa powder
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Filling:

• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon cocoa powder

Ganache Frosting:

• 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 pieces
• Confectioner’s sugar for garnish

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

To make the meringue mushrooms: In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the egg white until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until medium-stiff peaks form. With the motor running, slowly add in the sugar and beat until stiff peaks form (If you dip a spoon in and lift out, the meringue will stand straight up).

Using a pastry bag fitted with a round tip, pipe mushroom caps and stems onto the parchment. Make your stems and caps a variety of sizes. For caps, pipe mounded disks. Using your finger dipped in water, you can smooth out any piping lines across the caps. For stems, pipe columns straight up. Lengths of 1/4 to 1 inch provide a nice variety. Remember, they’re mushrooms-they look more realistic being imperfect! If you hate your work, you can always scoop it off the parchment back into the pastry bag and pipe again. This makes a fairly generous amount of meringue to work with, so don’t fret too much.

Bake the meringues for 2 hours. Turn off the oven and let them sit inside until the oven is completely cool. Gently lift the pieces from the parchment and store in an airtight container until you’re ready to decorate the cake. The meringues can be prepared up to three days ahead.

To make more realistic looking fungi, I brushed the bottoms of the caps with melted chocolate and let it almost set, then brushed melted white chocolate over the chocolate. Next I took a toothpick and ran it through the chocolates to create those “gills” that mushrooms have. Let the design cool and set.

For a truly dedicated mushroom-decorator, add some cocoa powder with the cream of tartar when making the meringue. Your mushrooms will be more of a gray tone, and not pure white.

When assembling mushrooms, it’s easiest to take a small paring knife and carve a small circle in the bottom of the cap for the stem to insert into.

To make the cake: Combine the water, butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Whisk in the cocoa powder until smooth. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Preheat the over to 375 degrees F. Butter a 12 x 17-inch jelly roll pan. Line with parchment paper. Butter the parchment paper and then dust with flour.

In a large bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks on medium speed for 1 minute. With the motor running, add 1/4 cup sugar and continue to beat until mixture is double in volume, thick, and light yellow. Beat in the cooled cocoa mixture and vanilla. Scrape down the sides and continue to beat for another minute. Transfer the batter to a large bowl mixing bowl. Sift the flour over the batter and fold in gently. Set aside.

In a clean mixing bowl with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue to beat until soft peaks form. With the motor running, gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form. Using a large spatula, gently fold into chocolate batter by thirds. Spread the batter onto the prepared pan. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the cake springs back gently when pressed. Remove the pan from the oven, cover with a clean damp kichen towel, and cool on a wire rack.

To make the filling: Combine the whipping cream, sugar, and cocoa powder in the mixing bowl of an electric mixer. Using the whisk attachment, whip the cream until medium-stiff peaks form. Scrape down the sides before the cream starts to thicken.

Lifting by the parchment paper, slide the cake out of the pan and onto a work surface. Spread the filling over the cake. It helps to use an offset spatula to get a flat surface. Turn so the long side faces you. Using the parchment to help, loosely roll the cake away from you. Don’t try to make too tight a roll or the cake will crack and the “log” will be too thin. Cut approximately 2 inches of the cake off each end, cutting on the diagonal. Set aside to make “knots”. Refrigerate the cake while you make the ganache frosting.

To make the ganache frosting: Coarsely chop the chocolate (no piece should be larger than 1/4-inch). Place in a large mixing bowl.

Heat the cream until it barely simmers. Whisk it into the chopped chocolate and continue to whisk until all the chocolate is melted and no lumps remain. Set aside to cool slightly for 5 minutes. Whisk in the butter. Set the ganache aside to cool and reach a spreadable consistency, 1 to 4 hours, depending on your kitchen temperature. Stir every 20 to 30 minutes as it cools.

To assemble the cake: Position the cake on the platter on which you intend to serve it. Sometimes a cutting board is just the trick if you don’t have a large enough platter. I covered mine with parchment paper to make a white surface for the log. Have your small “stump” pieces ready. Spread chocolate ganache over the cut end of each and attach to the log in whatever pattern suits you. Gently frost the seam where the stumps attach to the cake. Refrigerate the cake for 10 to 15 minutes to solidify the ganache.

Reserve about 2 tablespoons of ganache for the mushrooms. Generously frost the rest of the cake, covering all seams and exposed cake. If you desire, you may leave the ends of the log exposed. Once the cake is completely frosted, you can use a knife or a fork to make swirls on the end of each stump and down the length of the log.  Refrigerate until ready to serve but let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before eating for best taste. Can be made 1 day ahead.

Just before serving, sift confectioner’s sugar over the top of the cake to simulate snow (If this is done too early, the sugar will become moist and fade into the surface of the cake). Use bits of ganache (or melted chocolate) to attach mushroom stems to mushroom caps, if necessary, and to stick them on the cake. Dust the mushrooms with cocoa powder, if desired. Position the mushrooms on top of and around the cake.

You can also sugar cranberries and rosemary sprigs, using powdered egg whites that have been reconstituted (they are pasteurized so they are safe for everyone to eat). Brush the rosemary and cranberries with the egg white, then roll or sprinkle with extra-fine sugar. Let it sit a few minutes to harden. Position the sprigs and berries around the log. Don’t tuck them too far under the cake however, as the rosemary may infuse its flavor into the cake where it’s touching.

Yield: 14 servings

• 1/4 cup (2 ounces) red food coloring
• 3 1/2 tablespoons high-quality unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
• 1 3/4 cups sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 cups cake flour
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Fill muffin cups (approximately 2 1/2 dozen) with paper liners.

In a small bowl, stir the red food coloring and cocoa powder together to make a smooth paste. Set aside. using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition, then add the cocoa paste while continuing to beat. Reduce the mixer speed to medium, and beat the batter for about 4 minutes. In a medium bowl, sift together the cake flour, all-purpose flour, salt, and baking soda. Stir the vanilla into the buttermilk (this can be done in the measuring cup).

Add the flour mixture in three increments, starting and ending with the flour. Beat on medium speed just until the ingredients are combined. Add the sour cream and vinegar and beat on low speed until combined.

Fill the muffin cups three-fourths full with batter. Bake for 18 minutes or so, just until the cupcakes feel firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Do not overbake, or the cupcakes will dry out. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pans for 5 minutes, then unmold onto a wire rack and let cool completely before frosting.

Yield: Approximately 2 1/2 dozen standard cupcakes

Mascarpone Cream Cheese Frosting (The Pastry Queen Christmas by Rebecca Rather)

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
• 1 cup (8 ounces) cream cheese at room temperature
• 2 cups powdered sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Pinch of kosher salt
• 1 cup (8 ounces) mascarpone (Italian cream cheese, available at most grocery stores)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla or mint extract

In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, cream cheese, and powdered sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the mascarpone on very low speed until just combined (Be careful, once you add the mascarpone, excessive beating can make the frosting curdle). Stir in the vanilla or mint extract.

For the Chocolate Swirl:

• 6 ounces dark chocolate (60 to 72% cacao), coarsely chopped
• 1 teaspoon unsweetened dark cocoa powder

For the Sour Cream Cake:

• 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, soft but cool, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 1/4 cups sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 16 ounces sour cream
• 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

To make the Chocolate Swirl: In the top of a double boiler over simmer water, melt the chocolate. When the chocolate is completely smooth, add the cocoa powder and whisk until thorougly incorporated. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To make the Sour Cream Cake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously spray the inside of a 10-inch bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray.

Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a medium bowl.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter until smooth and ribbonlike. Scrape down the bowl and add the sugar. Beat until the mixture is smooth and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down the bowl and mix for 30 seconds. Mixing for longer will develop the gluten in your flour and create a tough, dry product.

Add the sour cream and vanilla and beat just until incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in three additions, scraping down the bowl before each addition and beating only until each addition is just incorporated. Do not overmix.

Pour one third of the cake batter into the chocolate swirl mixture. Use a spatula to combine the chocolate mixture and the batter to make a smooth chocolate batter. Spread half of the remaining plain cake batter in the prepared pan. Use an ice cream scoop to dollop the chocolate cake batter directly on top of the plain cake batter. The dollops will touch and mostly cover the plain batter, but some plain batter will peek through.

Use a butter knife to swirl the chocolate and plain batter together. Pour the remaining plain batter on top of the chocolate layer and smooth it out. Once again, use the knife to pull through the layers to create a swirl.

Bake in the center of the oven for about 1 hour, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time, or until a sharp knife inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Use a knife to loosen the edges of the cake and invert it onto the wire rack and let cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

The cake will keep for 3 days, tightly covered, at room temperature.

Yield: One 10-inch bundt cake

Dulce de Leche:

• 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

Cake:

• 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans
• 1 cup pecan halves
• 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3 cups sugar
• 6 large eggs
• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 3 cups cake flour
• 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup peeled, chopped peaches, fresh or frozen

Peach Filling

• 10-ounces jar high-quality peach preserves
• 1 3/4 cups peeled, chopped peaches, fresh or frozen, defrosted and drained if frozen

Dulce de Leche Frosting

• 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 4 cups powdered sugar
• Dulce de leche (above)

To make the dulce de leche: Remove the paper wrapper from the can of sweetened condensed milk. Use a can opener to make two small punctures on opposite sides of the top of the can. Set the can of milk in a medium saucepan, puncture side up. Fill the saucepan with water to reach two-thirds of the way up the sides of the can. Cover the saucepan and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat until the water simmers. Simmer the milk about 1 hour. Check the saucepan periodically, adding water to ensure that the water level does not drop below halfway. A bit of milk may seep out of the small holes in the can. Cook until the milk pooled on the top of the can has turned a deep golden brown (You may have heard that boiling the can of sweetened condensed milk unopened is a shortcut. Do not attempt this. The milk expands when heated and may erupt with explosive results).

Remove the can from the simmering water using a pot holder or tongs (it will be hot). Open the can carefully and use a rubber spatula to spoon the cooked milk into a small bowl. It should have a puddinglike consistency. Set aside until completely cooled. Reserve the dulce de leche for the frosting.

To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350 F. Line the bottoms of three 9-inch cake pans with parchment paper rounds and grease with butter or cooking spray. Arrange the chopped pecans on a baking sheet in a single layer, and arrange the pecan halves on another baking sheet. Toast them in the oven for 7 to 9 minutes, until golden brown and aromatic. Cool the pecans for at least 10 minutes. Set the toasted pecans halves aside for decorating the cake. Leave the oven at 350 F.

Using a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed about 2 minutes, until fluffy. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the mixture from the sides into the middle of the bowl. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating on medium-high speed between each addition. Add the sour cream and vanilla; beat until incorporated. In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Add the flour mixture to the batter and beat on low speed just until incorporated. Fold in the peaches and 1 cup of the chopped pecans (reserve the remaining chopped pecans for the filling). Pour or spoon the batter evenly into the prepared pans. Stagger the cake layers on the oven racks so that no layer is directly over another. Set two layers on one rack and the third on the other. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the cakes are light brown on top and firm to the touch. Cool for 10 minutes in the pans. Run a knife round the edges of the pans and invert the cakes onto a rack to cool completely, about 15 to 30 minutes. The cake layers can be kept frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 3 weeks.

To make the peach filling: Sitr together the preserves, peaches, and reserved 1 cup pecans.

To make the buttercream: Using a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the butter in a large bowl on medium-high speed about 2 minutes, until fluffy. Add the cream, vanilla, and powdered sugar and beat until incorporated. Add the cooled dulce de leche and beat until fluffy, about 2 minutes longer.

To assemble the cake, place 1 cake layer on a serving plate. Top with half of the peach filling. Add the second layer; top with the remaining peach filling. Add the third layer. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the buttercream. Press the toasted pecan halves in an even circle around the outer edge of the cake’s top.

The frosted cake will keep for 2 days at room temperature, or 1 week in the refrigerator. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving. Yield: 12 to 14 servings.

Ginger Crust:

• 2 cups crushed gingersnap cookies (about 40 cookies)
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Pumpkin Filling:

• 3 (8 ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1 1/3 cups sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 (15 ounce) can pure pumpkin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Praline Topping:

• 1 cup pecans
• 1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

To make the crust: Line the bottom of a 9 or 10-inch springform pan with parchment paper and coat with cooking spray. In a large bowl, stir together the melted butter with the crushed gingersnaps, sugar, and cinnamon. Press into the bottom of the prepared pan, working some of it up the sides, if desired.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

To make the filling: Using a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese in a large bowl on medium-high speed about 1 minute, until fluffy. Add the sugar and beat until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating on medium-high for 20 seconds after each addition. Add the vanilla, pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger; beat on medium speed about 1 minute, until incorporated.

Pour the filling over the crust. Tear off a large sheet of foil and place the springform pan in the center, carefully folding up the sides. This prevents the waterbath (waterbaths prevent cracks) from seeping into your cheesecake and making the crust soggy. Put the wrapped springform pan into a larger baking pan and set it on the center rack of the oven. Pour enough boiling water into the larger pan to reach halfway up the sides of the springform pan (this is a waterbath).

Bake about 1 hour, until the filling is set and golden brown on top. It should barely jiggle when the pan is gently slid. Cool the cheesecake on a rack about 30 minutes, then remove from waterbath and chill for several hours or overnight. Remove the cheesecake from the springform pan and set it on a serving plate. Make sure the plate is large enough to hold any of the praline sauce that drips over the top.

To make the praline topping: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Arrange the pecans in a single layer and toast them for 7-9 minutes, until golden brown and aromatic. Coarsely chop the nuts. Stir together the brown sugar, cream, and butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Boil the mixture for about 1 1/2 minutes, adjusting the heat to make sure it does not boil over. Do not stir. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla, salt, and pecans. Cool the topping for at least 15 minutes before pouring over the top of the chilled cheesecake. Serve immediately or cover and chill until ready to serve. The cheesecake will keep, well wrapped in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

Yield: 14 to 16 servings

Ladyfingers (You can always use store-bought if you prefer):

• 1/2 cup powdered sugar for dusting the ladyfingers, plus extra for dusting the baking sheets
• 7 large eggs, separated
• 3/4 cup plus 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 cup all-purpose flour

Soaking Syrup:

• 1/2 cup water
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
• 1/4 cup coffee liqueur, such as Kahlua
• 1/8 to 1/4 cup dark rum, such as Myer’s (You may choose to omit the rum and add more Kahlua in its place)
• 1 tablespoon vanilla

Filling:

• 3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
• 2 cups sugar
• 1 (16-ounce) tub mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
• 1 tablespoon boiling water
• 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder
• Dark cocoa powder or grated bittersweet chocolate, for dusting

To make the ladyfingers: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line two 12 x 17-inch baking sheets with parchment paper. Use a fine-mesh sieve to dust the paper with a light coating of powdered sugar. Using a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the egg yolks, the 3/4 cup granulated sugar, and the vanilla in a large bowl on high speed about 5 mintues, until the yolks become thick and pale yellow.

In a separate clean, large bowl, use a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment to beat the egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form. Add the 4 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating after each addition. Fold the egg white mixture gently into the egg yolk mixture. Use a sieve to gently sift the flour over the batter. Gently fold in the flour just until incorporated.

Spoon the batter into a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip. Pipe the batter onto the prepared baking sheets, making each ladyfinger about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. This takes a little practice, don’t worry if your ladyfingers are a little wobbly, they will be hidden by layers of luscious cream cheese and mascarpone cheese. You’ll be able to fit about 5 ladyfingers across and 4 down on each sheet. Bake about 10 minutes, until lightly browned.

Sift the 1/2 cup powdered sugar over the ladyfingers just as they come out of the oven. Cool for 5 minutes and use a spatula to transfer them from the baking sheet to the cooling racks.

To make the soaking syrup: Simmer the water and sugar in a heavy saucepan set over medium heat about 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Remove the mixture from the heat and stir in the espresso powder, liqueur, rum, and vanilla. Set aside to cool.

To make the filling: Using a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and sugar in a large bowl on high speed. Add the mascarpone and beat on medium speed just until incorporated. Combine the boiling water and espresso powder in a small bowl. Stir 1/4 cup of the cooled soaking syrup and 1 tablespoon of the espresso liquid into the filling.

Spoon half of the cream cheese mixture into a medium bowl. Stir the remaining 1 tablespoon of espresso liquid into the second bowl of cream cheese mixture. You will have 1 bowl of light brown cream cheese filling and 1 bowl of dark brown cream cheese filling (from the addition of extra espresso liquid).

To assemble the tiramisu: Coat a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with cooking spray. Dip both sides of 1 ladyfinger in the cooled soaking syrup and place in the bottom of the pan. Repeat with more ladyfingers and syrup to line the whole pan. Spoon the light-colored cream cheese mixture over the ladyfingers and smooth gently with a spatula. Cover with a second layer of dipped ladyfingers. Spoon on the dark-colored cream cheese mixture and smooth the top as before. You may not use all of your ladyfingers. Use a fine-mesh sieve to dush the top with a light dusting of dark cocoa, or sprinkle grated bittersweet chocolate evenly over the top.

Cover the tiramisu and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Serve cold from the refrigerator. Cut in squares and serve with a spatula.

Yield: 16-20 servings